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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.